Cheap and Easy Fires

Fire is, perhaps, the first tool man learned to use. With a fire, you can: maintain your core body temperature, purify water, cook food, create vessels and containers, create a psychological edge (positive attitude/outlook), keep away the “boogie man”, and signal for help.

I’m going to describe three simple ways to start a fire, all of them cheap, easy, and effective.

First is the old standby the Cigarette Lighter. There are hundreds of types of lighters, as long as the lighter you choose is reliable and easy to use, who cares about brand. That said some brands are more reliable than others, sometime you pay slightly more for a reason. If you’re a bargain hunter, you can buy lighters by the case, ebay usually has good deals. As with anything, lighters do have some downsides. If it’s wet you’re going to have to dry it off before it’ll work. If you are in a very cold climate,
a lighter might not work at all. Eventually, it’s going to run out of fuel, so you need to keep a replacement (or several).

My second pick is the simple wooden stick match. Wooden specifically because, although, they’re more expensive than paper books of matches, they’re also more reliable and less affected by dampness. Matches can range from the simple wooden strike on the box type to more expensive waterproof, windproof, “Survival” matches. For everyday use the regular ones work very well. When you absolutely Need a fire the “survival” matches are great, especially when it’s rainy and windy.

My third choice is the fire steel. I carry one made by “Light my fire”, but there are other good quality brands other than that. Use of a fire steel requires knowledge of local tinder items, or, at the very least, that you carry good dry tinder. Other than that a fire steel needs nothing else (other than some elbow grease). A good fire steel is; not affected by water, easy to use, puts off a very hot spark (around 3000 degrees), is easy to carry (light and compact), and very affordable (they range between 10and20dollars).

All three of these options have advantages and disadvantages, but I personally find it best to carry………All of them. I carry a fire steel all the time and matches and a lighter in my woods backpack. Redundancy in this area is not essential, but then neither is surviving. I would prefer to have all three and only use one than to need an alternate and not have it. Oh yeah about the “cheap” part of the title, not one of these fire sources costs more than a trip to the ER for exposure treatment. Think about it.

EDC flashlights for survival and beyond

As a confirmed gear junkie, I like flashlights. I carry one on a daily basis in a pouch on my belt. It’s a “Four Sevens” model that answers all of my needs (your needs may vary). But I didn’t start out with a high dollar model I started out with a trusty old mini-Maglite (actually two). The first maglite I carried on a consistent basis was the “original” mini maglite, the second was a led version that had some extra features (four different modes). All of these lights use “AA” size batteries, so no problems there and they all fit very nicely on your belt, in a pocket, or in a bag. All three of these lights are useful, rugged, and reliable. Any of these three flashlights could meet your needs. I feel confident recommending any of them.

Good. The original “Mini-Maglite” might be defined as a classic, it’s been around for more than thirty years, and has been the inspiration for many other flashlights that have long since vanished. It uses a single bulb and produces a useful amount of light. It is water resistant (it can be water proofed), it has one “mode” (on or off) and other than the bulb it’s relatively unbreakable. There are many upgrades available so you can customize your maglite to your preferences.

The Upsides; A reliable basic flashlight, good battery life, not likely to break (other than the bulb).

The Downsides; Low light levels, one operating mode (on or off), no (stock) pushbutton operation.

Better. Recently (within the last 7-8 years) Maglite recognized that they were getting left behind. Led (Light emitting Diode) flashlights were taking over the market. Maglite had a tried and true product, but it wasn’t the “latest and greatest”, and there were several companies taking advantage of this and offering led upgrades. So Maglite started offering their two and three cell mini-maglites in led form. I had one of the three cell led lights, and it worked very well, I currently have one of the two cell lights and it’s a good light too. The two cell light has four “modes” bright, dim, beacon (it blinks) and an SOS signal (it blinks in Morse code).

Upsides; Adjustable output modes (bright, dim), four modes (bright, dim, beacon, SOS), same basic reliable construction and function as the original, better battery life (thanks to the led bulb).
Downsides; Same twist head operation (it can get confusing with four operating modes), relatively low light output (but it’s better than the original).

Best.* Two years ago I was looking at a website that has a multitude of flashlights (Going gear.com, kind of a competitor but not really). Being a gear junkie I was in my element and being cheap I was looking through their close out section. A “Four Sevens” flashlight caught my eye. It used two “AA” batteries; it had seven modes (dim, brighter, medium, brighter, blinding, beacon, strobe, and SOS), a push button on the tail cap (very handy), a maximum output of 208 lumens (yes, that’s significant for a two AA flashlight), and best of all it was on clearance!(for 4 times as much as a mini-Maglite!) 

Upsides; Massive light output levels (for a two AA flashlight), a pushbutton tail cap switch, seven operating modes, relatively good battery life, a pocket clip, and did I mention massive light output?

Downsides; Seven operating modes (they can get confusing, and most of the time I only use two), battery life (it’s still good, just not on the highest light output levels), price (on sale about four times as much as a mini-maglite).
Since all three of them use two AA batteries which are cheap and easy to find, that isn’t a factor (some flashlights use very expensive, specialty batteries to get maximum results). They’re all constructed well, and they all provide useful amounts of light.My conclusion is all three of these lights are good. It all depends on what you want/need and what you don’t mind paying for.

 

The Mora the Merrier.

I have an addiction, I confess, and it involves outdoor gear. I like it, A Lot, and I have no intention of seeking help! One of my favorite pieces of outdoor gear is the humble knife. Outdoor knives range in style and size, from machetes to neck knives with a large variety in between, size wise, Mora knives fall somewhere in the middle. Style wise they’re somewhere between “homely as a mud fence” and “Functional”. It seems that the Swedish value a knife according to how well it Works rather than how well it Looks. In this review I look at the five Mora knives that I have and show the strengths, weaknesses, and purposes of each.

Firstly the Mora Companion knife, it has a 4” high carbon steel blade. Its handle is green plastic with a non-slip rubber grip area. I have two of these that look very similar, but actually look and feel, like two different knives. The difference between them is that one is a regular companion and the other is a companion “Robust”. The robust model has a thicker blade and a longer/wider handle. The regular model is on the left, the “robust” is on the right. Read more

Signs And Preventions Of Hypothermia

Survival Shelter with a Blanket

I sincerely hope that we have made it abundantly clear how important it is to maintain your core body temperature in a crisis and/or survival event.  One of the the items that we recommend you keep in your vehicle during the winter season are wool blankets.  These are also so easy to carry in a survival go-bag set up as well.

Not only can you use the blanket as it was intended, you can also use it as a wearable shelter.  Wool has the incredible usefulness that it will continue to insulate you even if it is wet.  In this video we demonstrate how to simply use it over you so you have a warm shelter.  Coupled with a garbage bag, you can keep most of the outside environmental elements off of you as well.  Watch the video then read the follow-up comments of caution below.

 

I want to caution you about using the garbage bag simply because it will not allow moisture to escape.  If you can get by without using it, it will allow humans perspiration or other moisture to evaporate more easily.  However, if you are caught in a downpour, it will be a nice addition to this simple set up.

I have used this exact setup on a number of occasions, both when I was a kid and later as an adult.  It is rather easy to continue to get work done with something such as this.  You can usually use your own belt to cinch it together, or the ever present paracord, that should be in all your survival kits.

I hope you liked the video, please subscribe to the Dan’s Depot Channel if you have not done so already.

Until next time, I hope to see you on, or off, the trail!

How To Poo In The Wilderness

 

To learn more about properly using the bathroom in the wilderness, be sure to view my blog post entitled ‘Using The Bathroom In The Woods.’

The 35′s – Average Statistics For An Urban Related Crisis

S.T.O.P.A. Survival Method

Survival Water filter, aka Hillbilly Water Filter

I have what I would call a unique post for you today.  Unique in that I call this a hillbilly water filter, because it is made with basically garbage.   What makes it work, however, is some really cool science.  So pull up your desk and sharpen your pencils kiddos, we are going to science class!

First and foremost, I hope we can all agree that water that comes from an unknown source is suspect to having impurities in it.  These could include things as obvious as human or other animal feces, or as small as impurities only seen on the microscopic level.  So in a survival or other related situation, we must clean any water that we will ingest.

I think most would agree that the best way to do such a  cleansing is to boil the water to rolling boil.  Next up would be to use a filter designed for such a purpose.  What if neither of these options are available?  You can then make a hillbilly water filter as I do in the following video.  As I say in the video, this is not the best option, but may be your only option.  This one is still better than drinking the water without first cleaning it.  Watch the video and then come back to this post below the vid, and I will explain the science behind it.

 

Charred wood and charcoal is nothing more than a substance that has been brought to a very high temperature and forms a network of porous carbon molecules.  Basically the pores in the carbon are so small, that organic material simply is attracted to the pores by a force called Van der Waals Force.  This force is named after a guy named Dewey Dipswitch.  Not really, it was named after a Dutch scientist named Johannes Diderik van der Waals.  So when these compounds go through, the “bad stuff” gets hung up and only the water molecules pass through.  Pretty cool huh?

This video was done in winter time.  If it had been done in the spring/summer I would have used greens that I know are edible (chickweed, dandelion leaves) instead of rocks and sand.  The greens also act as a pre-filter for the coals (carbon).  Also, as I said in the video, I would cover the whole apparatus with a bandana or other cloth to filter out large particles such as sticks, and other organic large debris.  I did not do that on the video so you could see the whole apparatus.

As always, I hope you like the knowledge but never have to use it, but please practice it anyway.  This is a last ditch method to cleaning water in a bad situation.  Let us know what you think by commenting here, or on the video on youtube.  Please subscribe also, to get the first looks at the things we are doing!

Until next time, I hope to see you on, or off, the trail!!

Lacerations & Avulsions

Injuries to the skin are one of the most common injuries an individual can sustain. These injuries can range in severity as well as well as complexity of treatment. Wounds may be superficial and linear (which are very painful) such as paper cuts, or deeper (as in lacerations), they can also be abrasions (scraping of the skin), punctures of the skin can be another common injury, and the last classification of traumatic wounds to the skin are avulsions (tearing of the skin). Injuries to the skin though are universally approached in a pretty straight manner. Compression is the standard first line of treatment, and this is usually an instinctual response. Inspecting the wound usually follows and this also is often instinctual.

When administering first aid to a bleeding individual (not yourself) ALWAYS wear medical grade protective gloves to prevent transmission of HIV / Hepatitis or any other blood borne pathogen. Everyone should have several pairs in their first aid kits. Another point to bear in mind is that if the injury is a deep puncture wound or the person has not had a recent (within the last 5 to 10 years) tetanus shot or booster or if the cut is from a human or animal bite – immediate medical attention should be sought.

Lacerations & Avulsions:

A laceration is a wound that penetrates all layers of the skin and may also continue into subcutaneous fat, muscle, blood vessels, and nerves. A laceration will display a gap in the skin that can be opened or closed when pressure is applied along the sides of the wound.

• Stop the bleeding: application of pressure with a clean cloth, rag, or gauze for 1 – 3 minutes is usually enough for smaller wounds. If you still have “oozing” – you may need to apply continual pressure for 20-30 minutes. Don’t keep checking to see if the bleeding has stopped because this may damage or dislodge the clot that’s forming and cause bleeding to resume. If blood spurts or continues flowing after continuous pressure, this may indicate injury to an artery or a major vessel and can be a life threatening injury. If bleeding is severe, you can consider applying a tourniquet to the area proximal (nearer to the heart) to the injury. Tourniquets should always be attempted to be placed over a wide as possible area to prevent tissue damage from the pressures applied by the tourniquet.
• There are several chemical coagulation products out there which are very effective. I personally do not use them since they are kind of expensive, have an expiration date and I have gotten by on several occasions without the need for such a product – even with real massive wounds I have treated. Just be aware that there are other products out there.
• Once bleeding has minimized or even stopped, it can be carefully rinsed or flushed out with sterile saline solution, sterile water (boiled & filtered), or peroxide. I recommend NOT using peroxide more than after the initial injury since it can dislodge blood clots as well as be toxic to the local cells necessary for healing. I always perform a saline flush after using peroxide. The area surrounding the cut can be cleansed with commercially available antiseptic wipes or simple soap and water – with care taken to minimize the soap which gets into the wound.
• Dry the wound well & it is usually a good idea to apply a thin film of antibiotic ointment and dress the wound with a bandage.
• Sometimes lacerations need suturing (stitches). This promotes healing and reduces scarring. The length of time stitches stay in depends upon the location of the laceration, its length and/or depth, and associated tissue damage. If the laceration Is not very deep or long, adhesive strips (“Steri-strips”) can be used to bring a clean, uninfected cut together. I always carry them in my first aid kit. “Butterfly” bandages help serve this purpose also, as does superglue”

Abrasions:

• An abrasion is the removal of the top layer or layers of skin by the friction of anything rubbing directly on the skin. Usually, an abrasion oozes blood or fluid from injured capillaries (small blood vessels). Because superficial nerve endings in the skin are exposed, abrasions tend to be very uncomfortable.
• As soon as possible, clean the abrasion with clear water and soap (remember to wear gloves at all times if not treating yourself). A surgical soap, Chloraprep, Betadine, or Hibiclens, is preferable, but any mild soap without fragrance can be used. Try to remove all foreign material from the wound using a clean bandana, cloth or preferably sterile gauze pads. If you cannot remove all imbedded material, seek additional medical care. Remaining material may cause infection or tattooing of the skin.
• Generally, abrasions should be covered and kept moist. Maintain a moist environment, though covering the wound with an anti-bacterial ointment, or applying a gauze pad moistened with sterile saline and then wrapping the area or covering the area with a dry bandage. Change this dressing once or twice a day until healing is complete. When an abrasion is over a joint or a moving body part, keep the abrasion moist until healed.

Puncture wounds:

• Puncture wounds have a high association with infection. Once the bleeding has been controlled (as above), wash the area similar to how you’d wash an abrasion (see above) and monitor for signs if infection (pain redness / swelling / oozing / pus / odor). Seek professional medical attention as soon as possible if any of the signs of infection occur.
• Puncture wounds to the chest can cause collapsed lungs – monitor for signs of painful or shallow breathing or breathing which is becoming shallower. If any of these signs occur -apply tape (duct tape is awesome for this type of application) or an impermeable bandage to “seal” the air leak which is causing the lung to collapse. Get the victim to a hospital ASAP.
• Puncture wounds to the neck & back are especially dangerous for nerve or spinal cord damage & the severity of the injury / situation needs to be evaluated before any action is taken.
• Puncture wounds to the abdomen can be concerning for injury to the intestines or other organs. Watch for signs of internal bleeding such as a distension (ballooning out) of the abdomen, abdominal pain, nausea or diahrrea. This is a medical emergency that needs to be taken to the hospital ASAP.

Remember to have a high quality – well stocked first aid kit as well as medical grade gloves. Duct tape, some extra clean bandanas or rage and superglue are always in my bug out and hiking bags! The most important thing to remember in any medical emergency is to STAY CALM!!

Until next time – stay healthy! Dr. E

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